S-class W202 Mercedes

1993-2000 of release

Repair and car operation

Leveling and lakirovochny works on a body of the car assume knowledge of a material and its processing. Such knowledge is got during long-term practice. Therefore data on elimination of only small malfunctions of a body and a varnish covering here are given.

The same is necessary for repeated varnishing surely лакокраска since the slightest differences of coloring after the completion of works are evident at once. The corresponding tone of paint is specified by the manufacturer on the firm plate, as varnish number. The firm plate is in a motor compartment on a forward wall.

If distinction between a firm varnish and a repair varnish nevertheless takes place, it speaks change of color of a varnish in use the car as a result of aging, ultra-violet solar radiation, extreme fluctuation of temperatures, weather conditions and chemical influence, for example, industrial emissions. Besides, damages of a surface of a varnish, change of its coloring and fading take place, if care of a varnish covering and its cleaning were made by improper means.

The metallized varnish covering consists of two layers, the main varnish – a metallic and a colourless integumentary varnish. In the course of varnishing the colourless varnish is put from above a damp main varnish. Danger of difference of color at repeated drawing of the metallized varnish covering is especially great, since here already various viscosity of a repair varnish results in distinction of flowers in comparison with a firm varnish.

Elimination of damages from blows of stones

To avoid the big repair caused by emergence of a rust, it is necessary to eliminate small damages of a varnish covering regularly.

For elimination of small scratches and traces from blows of stones which break only an integumentary varnish and enough processing by a varnish pencil do not get to a tin, generally. Along with it the varnish helps with tubes with a brush also, and also on sale there is самоклеющаяся a varnish film in case damage very insignificantly or mentions only a first coat.

Deeper damages from blows of stones on which the rust is already formed, it is cleared by udalitel of a rust, a knife or a small screw-driver, there is no yet a pure tin. It is very important, that at all did not remain even small spots of a rust. Udalitel of a rust are meant as the small plastic sleeves supplied for a vytsarapyvaniye of a rust with a short wire brush.

The cleared places should be carefully dried and fat-free. For this purpose a place of repair and a surrounding varnish to clear an udalitel of silicone.

To put on the cleared metal surface with a thin brush of a little varnish first coat ("Primer"). As the first coat usually is available on sale in aerosol packing, it is necessary to put a little first coat on a cover of packing and to dip in it a brush.

After drying of a first coat to varnish a repair place from banks with a varnish for a tamponirovaniye. In such packings the brush is built in a cover. If on hand there is only one aerosol packing with the corresponding paint, выпрыснуть there is some paint on a cover, and in summary to put a varnish with a thin layer a brush. Always to put only a thin varnish coat that it did not spread. In summary to give to paint it is good to dry out. Process of varnishing to carry out until deepening will not be filled with a varnish and it will not be appreciable at level of the surrounding varnished surface.

Deformation elimination body / removal of sinks from corrosion

Small holes can be eliminated by means of a leveling hammer and a suitable manual anvil. When deepenings in a body from a rust it is recommended to replace the damaged detail in a complex, depending on damage size, or to weld sheet steel.

Elimination of deformations of a body

Leveled surface periodically supervise a hand while it will not get the necessary form. Small surfaces late putty.

From a repair place after alignment carefully remove the remains of a rust and an old varnish by means of the rough emery paper (120) tense on the grinding grandma, or polish with a fabric circle. Paste over the decorative films located nearby or plastic details with a sticky tape that they casually were not scratched when polishing.

Preparation for varnishing

Before varnishing wash up the car.

Varnishing carry out only at temperature above +12°С, avoiding direct solar radiation and a wind.

Rust removal

Place of repair paste over with a sticky tape casually not to damage an adjacent varnish.

With trihedral file or screw-driver, and also grinding paper No. 120 remove a visible rust and a rust hidden by bubbles.

Grinding paper No. 320 grind in advance a place round damage on width about 1-2 cm to a healthy varnish.

The zinced surfaces of a body grind, whenever possible, only to a first coat, instead of to the zinced surface.

Drawing protective from corrosion of a first coat (Primer)

Wipe a place of repair by a nitrothinner and remove with a pure rag fat and a dust, let's dry out.

That there were no further problems, Primer and an integumentary varnish put on it should be identical production. Otherwise the varnish the late can become covered by bubbles or shrink.

"Primer" is sprayed on a tin cleared of a rust, from distance 25 see. That the smallest splashes of an aerosol did not get on adjacent details, paste over a surface round a place of repair with paper and a sticky tape.

In 10–15 minutes it is possible to repeat spraying. If after spraying the shpaklevka is necessary, it is necessary to allow to Primer to dry.

Shpaklevka

Distinguish 2 types of a shpaklevka: two-componental shpaklevka and thin shpaklevka. The two-componental shpaklevka mixes up shortly before processing with a hardener. It causes fast hardening of a shpaklevka which can soon be processed after that. Such shpaklevka is used for alignment of larger roughnesses of a body. The thin shpaklevka is decorative, smoothing small roughnesses. It is possible to put it in some layers. Both types of a shpaklevka are issued in tubes and banks, filling shpaklevka are available also on sale in aerosol packing.

Though on bank it is specified that drawing of a shpaklevka can be made directly on the cleared tin, just in case we recommend to process previously "Primer" tin (protection against corrosion).

After drying grind roughnesses manually or a superfinishing head. Thus grinding paper No. 180 should be used. It is possible to use paper for damp polishing. In this case moisten a place of repair with a wet sponge, and over grinding paper from time to time in the course of grinding pour water enough.

In summary carefully clear a place of repair and let's to it dry.

Depending on thickness of a layer the thin shpaklevka should dry 2–3 hours.

Polishing

On sale there is a grinding paper of various granularity. The less its number, the is more rough polishing. For grinding of a two-componental shpaklevka granularity from No. 180 to 240 is recommended; the filling shpaklevka and an old varnish are ground by grinding paper No. 360 with moistening. For the last damp polishing before varnishing grinding paper No. 600 is recommended.

For the subsequent damp final polishing special paper is suitable for damp polishing No. 600 best of all, it it is possible to grind also boundary varnish and varnish splashes. Remaining after that microscopic scratches on an integumentary varnish are hardly appreciable.

Cleaning

Before drawing of a varnish covering it is necessary to clear of fat and from the silicone remains a ground surface and an adjacent varnish surface in width approximately in two palms. The udalitel of silicone best of all for this purpose approaches.

After polishing carefully clear a place of repair and paste over all adjacent surfaces with a newsprint and a sticky tape. When varnishing wings carefully paste over tires and the shock-absorber.

For prevention of subsidence of a dust sprinkle a floor water.

Varnishing process

That there were no problems in the course of the varnishing, previously put Primer should be made by the same firm, as an aerosol varnish. The varnish in this case will not form bubbles and to shrink.

We recommend to be trained previously in varnish drawing, for example, on an old wing.

Humidify a floor with water that the dust was not formed.

Wipe a place of repair and area adjoining to it an udalitel of silicone. Even more optimum basis for an integumentary varnish will be created by wiping by the polishing paste deleting silicone.

Aerosol packing before use intensively stir up a minimum within 3–5 minutes, differently on a surface will arise begin to flow a varnish.

At a covering "Metallic" is delicious put a small amount of paint from aerosol packing on any cardboard to eliminate the particles which were besieged on an elevating tube of metal.

Small surfaces spray on a spiral outside inside to avoid too big dusting.

To conduct aerosol packing with uniform speed and at identical distance (about 25 cm) from a surface.

To provide probably imperceptible transition to a healthy varnish, it is necessary to put with its at least four being blocked courses of spraying. Each separate drawing should increase a surface of the previous put layer by 2–3 centimeters.

If spraying is made in too short distance, spraying movement too slow or occurs to variable speed, there are so-called flows of a varnish. It means that in some places the varnish flows down down since there is too much it выпрыскивается on the same place. The same occurs, if at direction change in the course of spraying the sprayer does not pass through the closed surface.

For a varnish "Metallic" is very difficult for reaching coincidence of color to a firm varnish. Pigmentation (distribution of particles of aluminum) will be more uniform if the last process of spraying occurs from distance not 25 cm, and 30 see. Slow movement of a sprayer gives more saturated color, and fast spraying – more light tone.

Empty aerosol packing. For this purpose establish aerosol packing on a head and выпрыскивайте paint until it will not be.

After the completion of lakirovochny works at once remove all sheetings.

Let's dry out the varnished surface. Drying can be accelerated by means of a strong photo or reflex lamp.

Not to use the fan since as a result on a fresh varnish zavikhrenny particles of a dust can be besieged.